Lettre de Formentera

A Paradise of Peace in Times of War

Formentera, February 16, 2025

In 1972, Swiss director Yvan Butler presented Lettre de Formentera, a documentary aired on the program Temps présent by Radio Télévision Suisse. This 26-minute short film, which you can watch at the end of this article, captured the essence of Formentera, portraying it as a haven of peace amidst one of the most devastating conflicts of the time: the Vietnam War.

Butler, known for his cinematic sensitivity in works such as Fille au violoncelle (1973), explored in this documentary, titled Lettre de Formentera (Letters from Formentera), not only the island’s natural beauty and the customs of its inhabitants before the arrival of tourism but also its transformation into a symbol of peaceful resistance.

Lettre de Formentera reflects the desperation of a generation seeking to escape violence, narrating how young people from around the world, especially Americans, found in the island a place to redefine their existence and values—a place to embrace the hippy spirit that defined an era both on the island and globally.

Formentera and the Vietnam Warm

The Vietnam War (1955-1975) was a long and bloody conflict between North Vietnam, supported by the Soviet Union and China, and South Vietnam, backed by the United States and other allied nations. What began as an attempt to halt the spread of communism in Southeast Asia soon became a symbol of political division, protests, and global dissent.

The U.S. intervention in Vietnam was highly controversial, sparking a massive pacifist movement within the United States itself. Images of bombings, destroyed villages, and young soldiers killed or maimed triggered a wave of outrage and protests worldwide.

Many young Americans, especially from affluent backgrounds, faced a moral and existential dilemma: being drafted to fight in a war they neither understood nor supported, or fleeing to avoid military service. Some sought refuge in neighboring countries like Canada, while others chose more exotic and less controlled destinations such as Goa in India, Bali in Indonesia, or the Balearic Islands in Spain.

Formentera, with its laid-back atmosphere, idyllic climate, and underdeveloped economy, offered the perfect hideaway for those seeking to evade the draft and live an alternative lifestyle.

Cafe Bar María, now the Blue Bar

The documentary is filled with images of what Formentera was like in the 1970s, showcasing mostly rural landscapes or the island’s coastline. Among all these frames, what caught my attention the most was seeing the current Blue Bar, perched atop the dune on Migjorn beach, and wanting to learn more about its past.

After asking several friends, it was Pascual from Es Caló who confirmed that the place was then called Cafe Bar María. It was named after the owner of the establishment, who, along with her daughter, ran the iconic venue — already recognizable back then for its unmistakable blue walls.

Formentera and the Hippy Movement

The island of Formentera became a hippy enclave during the 1960s and 70s. Inspired by counterculture, the quest for freedom, spirituality, and rejection of traditional values, hippies found in Formentera a paradise where they could live in peace, practice free love, meditate, and connect with nature.
The hippy community of Formentera, depicted in Yvan Butler’s documentary, symbolized a stark contrast to the brutal reality of war. While the world bled in Vietnam, peace, art, and brotherhood flourished in Formentera.

Lettre de Formentera remains a visual testimony of a turbulent time and of a refuge that once offered hope to many. Today, I like to think that Formentera still preserves part of that bohemian spirit, attracting visitors seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse themselves in a simpler existence—surrounded by a mesmerizing blue sea that captivates anyone who dives into it at least once in their life.
The story of Formentera, its role during the Vietnam War, and its connection to the hippy movement serves as a reminder of how small corners of the world can become symbols of resistance, freedom, and peace.